Leeway Workshop, LLC
September 07, 2010
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Version 10 Spring loaded pawl install
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The following should help explain how the new 10 version pawls are installed. It is a bit picture heavy. Just click on a thumbnail image to see a larger version. The pictures show how a 10.4 clamp and pawls are installed. This is the one with the 4 inch port. If you have a smaller one, they are similar except no washer goes on the bolts first. Those truss head screws are large enough by themselves.

All parts
1.
This image shows the parts scattered out. This all looks quite complicated, but it is really pretty simple. The steps below should make it fairly clear.



Parallel set screws
2.
This is a parallel set screw that helps to keep the clamp halves from bending the bolt when they get tightened up on the splitter. All set screws are 6-32 and are 7/16" long. They may require some mild thread locker to maintain adjustment. I apply that here, but you may need to do this as well.



Parallel set screws
3.
This is the front parallel set screw. There are only two for this. They install only in the right side of the clamp half. Right side as looking at it on the saw with the curved portion forward and down. The hex or allen wrench is a 1/16" and comes with the package.



Right half clamp
4.
Next you add a washer to the 4" models, none on other models. Then comes a 5/8" by 3/8 inch bushing. Shorter bushings on the thin models.



Rear stud installed with nut
5.
There are two thin 1/4 - 20 nuts that install inside each stud or bolt on the right clamp half. Don't overtighten these. Just snug them up for now and tighten when complete.



Rear bushing
6.
No washers on the inside of the bushing on the right side clamp half.



Front stud
7.
This is the shorter of the two stepped bushings for the front. Both will be the same length on anything other than the 4 inch port. There is only a minor difference, but the pawl rides on the shortest step inside. The guard itself will ride on the outer step.



front stud with pawl and spring
8.
Pawl with the right side spring. There is a 3/32 inch hole in the front center of the clamp halves. This retains the straight bend of the spring. The pawls hooks into the ushape bend in the spring. It is easy to get the springs backwards. This side should look similar to what you see here.



front stud with pawl and spring installed
9.
Installing the front inner nut. You should insure that the brass bushing is seating against the clamp and not stuck on the spring.



right pawl keeper
10.
Installing the right side pawl keeper set screw. This screw holds the pawls in the upright position when installing the splitters into the saw or when you don't need the pawls for a particular cut. Adjust this so that the pawl is able to swing past it to rest on the stop screw shown in the next image. Spin the pawl CCW on this side to apply a bit of tension from the spring. Careful! These things are sharp. They do not require a lot of tension to work.



right pawl stop
11.
Installing the front right pawl stop set screw.



adjusting
12.
This image shows the approximate set screw adjustments for the stop and keep screws



rear stud installed with kob
13.
You can now install the second clamp half. In all models a washer is installed next to the clamp here. Sometimes two may be needed. In the 10.4, you need a 1 inch long bronze bushing. The other models use the same as was on the first side. Then comes one more washer before the knob.



left spring
14.
Here is the left or logo side spring.



left pawls installed
15.
A washer may or may not be needed inside this next bushing. Insure though that the bushing doesn't pinch the spring. Spin this pawl clockwise to add tension.



left pawl keeper
16.
Installing the left side pawl keep set screw once tension has been applied to the pawls. Careful! These things are sharp. They do not require a lot of tension to work.



left pawl stop
17.
Installing the left side pawl stop.



completed left side
18.
Left side view. Ready to install on the saw. When you want to swap splitters out, just loosen the two knobs and pull the clamp halves apart enough to disengage the 3 steel roll pins from the 3 splitter holes. The left side pawls will stay intact, but the right side may spring loose on you. You can do it without it popping losse, but takes a bit of practice.



completed right side
19.
Right side of installed clamp and pawls.



completed to view
20.
Top side view. Be sure to snug up the two bolts. No need to be extra tight. Just snug. The knobs pull everything together. If you have any issues or questions about any part of this, just email and perhaps send some pictures of the issues. There is an email link right below on the right in the footer bar. Thanks.

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